Georgia O’Keeffe was a source of inspiration for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first cruise collection for Dior as the label’s ads featuring Jennifer Lawrence can attest. After the Brooklyn Museum’s heralded run of “Georgia O’Keeffe; Living Modern” last year, the Peabody Essex Museum outside of Boston is taking another look at the artist’s disciplined sense of style with “Georgia O’Keeffe: Art, Image, Style.”
For the most part, the Massachusetts exhibition features most of the major designer pieces owned by O’Keeffe including looks from Pucci, Balenciaga, Zoe de Salle, Ferragamo, Marimekko and Claire McCardell, as well as pieces the bespoke tailors Emsley and Knize. And Estrellita Karsh, the wife of the esteemed portrait photographer Yousuf, believes her husband mentioned how the artist wore couture made by Christian Dior. In 1956, Karsh traveled to New Mexico to shoot O’Keeffe. That portrait hangs near the entrance to what used to be her Abiquiu home, which is now a museum run by the Georgia O’Keeffe Foundation.
“She really presents herself in many areas — in women’s rights, women’s independence. Taking herself to the desert and the fact that she was a schoolteacher who came to New York to a gallery that was in itself revolutionary. That was very, very push-the-envelope,” Karsh said. “She crafted her own image and the clothes were part of it. In this sense, the clothes not only made the man, they made the woman, or she made the clothes [making] the woman. So no stylist dressed her.”
Karsh added, “She didn’t have to do this. If she had worn slippers and a nightgown, her art would have been wonderful. But look at what she did with her clothes. Her clothes seemed so carefree, but they weren’t — they were calculated.”
Estrellita Karsh once caught a glimpse of the artist years ago during a salute to Pablo Casals at Carnegie Hall, where “100 cellists from all over the world had dropped whatever they were doing to come in his honor.” Karsh said she told her husband, “Look at this woman. She’s so beautiful.” He said, ‘That’s Georgia O’Keeffe.’…She was beautiful as a person, not a movie star but this was a presence — great energy.”
PEM has reimagined its own version of the artist’s style with a capsule collection. Cape Cod-based designer Brenda Lee created a Georgia O’Keeffe-inspired pleated dress, a wrap style, a black-and-white jacket and a swirl scarf. Lee is owner of the design company Cupcake International and a Barnstable, Mass. boutique called OZ. Lee’s husband Peter O’Keeffe has a distant connection to the artist.
Meanwhile, Karsh through her late husband’s work has a more direct connection to another prominent figure that is back in the popular vernacular – Winston Churchill. Gary Oldman’s Oscar run is helping to reintroduce the younger generation to the former British Prime Minister. Karsh’s 1941 portrait of Churchill is iconic on its own, even appearing on the British five pound note. The image is aptly named “The Roaring Lion.” Karsh described the scenario to Morley Safer of “60 Minutes” how he politely removed a cigar from Churchill’s mouth after Churchill had declined to do so. Harsh then recalled how Churchill told him, “You can even make a roaring lion stand still to be photographed.”Read more at:bridesmaid dresses online | formal dresses brisbane
It’s been a week to the New Year but the party fever doesn’t seem to die down anytime soon. While you plan to head out to party all night long, make sure that your fashion game is on point. Ditch those predictable sequins and glitters this time, and make it avant-garde, with interesting silhouettes and styles. From vintage-inspired looks, oversized outfits, to men wearing mantyhose, this shoot has all that takes to turn one into the center of attention. It’s high time to ditch the regular partywear, and gear up in unmatchable style to rock the party season.
A jumpsuit with exaggerated sleeves is ideal for an out-of-the-box look. Model Veda Hrudya Nadendla looks ready to groove to the beat in this rust-coloured jumpsuit. A high pony with gothic eyes rounds off her look.
Layer it up
Let the spotlight be on you as you step out wearing a trenchcoat teamed with turtleneck and pants. Model Anand Dixit shows how to rock the look with his prim and proper pompadour hair.
The modern metador
Supermodel-turned -actor Karan Oberoi is wearing a 3D jumpsuit with a jacquard overcoat. The asymmetrically cut short pants have been teamed up with mantyhose to enhance the look. The experimental eye makeup perfects the look.
A bright pantsuit is all you need for a chic addition to your party line-up. Model Apeksha Verma is wearing a satin emerald-colour pantsuit with wine coloured kitten heels. Sleek hair with a quiff will add oodles of glamour to the look.
This easy breezy look should be embraced. In this monochromatic shirt teamed with bombers and cropped trousers, model-turned-actor Karan Oberoi looks dandy. And that mantyhose adds a fun element to the style.
Model Preeti looks pretty as a picture in this 3D floral skirt teamed with a leather brassier. With her hair done neatly in old Hollywood-style curls, she looks ready to be the showstealer of any soirée.Read more at:green bridesmaid dresses | blue bridesmaid dresses
Hollywood’s women wore black to last night’s Golden Globes ceremony and created in effect a red carpet “blackout” in honor of the new “Time’s Up” initiative, which aims to end sexual harassment and gender inequality in entertainment and other industries,
While this is far from the first time red carpet fashion has been used for social and political messaging, the Time’s Up protest may be one of the most wide-reaching.
The message was reinforced further by looks that conveyed fashion with authority. With power-dressing continuing to trend on runways and the pantsuit more popular than ever, many stars evoked strength with their looks, whether it be a strong silhouette, a bold architectural shoulder or sleek suiting that commanded attention.
“Wonder Woman” star Gal Gadot’s ruched gown worn with a cropped tuxedo jacket could have easily been worn by the Amazon heroine in her summer blockbuster film.
“Lady Bird” star and best actress in a musical or comedy winner Saoirse Ronan chose a one-sleeved, slim-fitted gown with bold silver accents that made her look as thought she were ready to step into a superhero role of her own.
“The Crown” nominee Claire Foy (who portrays another woman with authority, Queen Elizabeth II) chose a flared pantsuit and embellished the sleeve of her jacket with a “50/50” button advocating for equal pay for women.
Tracee Ellis Ross accented her halter gown with a dramatic matching Stephen Jones turban that literally increased her stature at the award show.
Golden Globe winner for best supporting actress in “I, Tonya” Allison Janney chose a gown that formed a black and white butterfly across the bodice, an uplifting fashion message that made the actress look like she could take flight following her win.
With award show season now officially under way, perhaps more red carpet activism is waiting in our future at the upcoming Screen Actors Guild Awards, Grammy Awards and Oscars.Read more at:plus size formal dresses | short formal dresses
CORSET TOPS — Sana Bucha’s ensemble will make you want to buy a corset top. It’s flattering on her curvaceous body and breaks up her blush-toned look. It’s a must-have. And, a lot of celebrities have it. Now that it’s had its moment, it’s time to put this constricting accessory in our fashion past.
NO PANTS DANCE — no pants? No problem, according to celebrities like Rabia Butt. But hey, if the T-shirt is as long as a dress, who needs bottoms. Paired with stilletos, this look has travelled through concerts, A-list events and parties with ease. Now, it’s expected and thus ready to be retired.
SUPER DEEP V-NECK — how low can you go? Necklines are continuing to take a dive, making fashion tape for influencers like Rachel Gill a wardrobe necessity in 2017. It’s an attractive cut, but we’re thinking necklines will be on the incline come 2018.
UNWEARABLE SUNGLASSES — do these glasses look amazing with Saba Qamar’s black outwear? Yes. Does this picture make you want to shop online? Probably. Here’s the thing: In real life, for everyday, many of this year’s popular sunglasses just don’t translate. Our advice: Try them on before you invest, because in this instance it’s more like “one size fits a few”.Read more at:celebrity inspired dresses | cheap formal dresses
ITALIAN fashion designer Stefano Gabbana, one half of the iconic Dolce & Gabbana brand, said in a new interview that he’s tired of being labelled by his sexuality.
“I don’t want to be called gay, because I’m simply a man … full stop,” the 55-year-old said in an interview with Italy’s Corriere della Sera daily.
“The word ‘gay’ was invented by those who need to label people, and I don’t want to be identified by my sexual choices,” he said.
Gabbana launched the luxury fashion label in 1985 with his partner Domenico Dolce, and although they separated in 2004 the couple continued to work together.
“I thought that I could help spread a new culture as a famous person, a culture no longer based on gay rights but on human rights. We are human beings before being gay, heterosexual or bisexual,” Gabbana said.
The Milanese couturier said gay associations “often serve as a defence, but I don’t want to be protected by anyone, because I’ve done nothing wrong”.
He said he realised he was homosexual aged 18, when his girlfriend “who I really liked” came to visit him for a weekend in Milan, but when they went dancing he “was watching the men more than her”.
“I had known [about being gay] for a while, but I didn’t have the courage to admit it. Only through therapy did I realise that there had been clear signs in my childhood.
“I wanted to play alone … because I felt different from the other children and I feared that if we were together they would realise. And they would tell my mother,” he added.
It’s not the first time comments by the fashion designer have caused outrage.
In 2015, Gabbana and Dolce said didn’t agree with gay couples having IVF children.
In an interview at the time, Dolce said: “You are born to a mother and a father, or at least that’s how it should be. I call them children of chemistry, synthetic children. Rented uterus, semen chosen from a catalogue.”
His comments infuriated Elton John, who has two sons conceived through IVF via a surrogate with his husband David Furnish.
“How dare you refer to my beautiful children as ‘synthetic’”, John wrote via Instagram.
“And shame on you for wagging your judgmental little fingers at IVF — a miracle that has allowed legions of loving people, both straight and gay, to fulfil their dream of having children.
On Friday, Margaret Trowell School of Industrial and Fine Arts hosted the first showcase extravaganza dubbed Fashion Parade 2017, Beyond Fashion.
A concept by Nakisanze Sarah, a PhD student and Fashion lecturer, the parade was looking at the popular culture with a specific focus on function and beauty.
Here, Nakisanze was looking at different ways fashion has been used as a tool to pass on messages, especially taking into account different ways it has been a political fabric with legislators using certain dress codes to express their views, or other incidents where civil servants were asked to dress a particular way.
The showcase challenged and tasked students to take on the concept, then interpret it using their own experience and represent it in a fashion form. But that was not all; after years of fashion students staying hidden in the folds of exhibitions by the College of Engineering Design Art and Technology, this was one of the rare times they were having the floor.
The exhibition invited guest designers and also former students of the school but made the third year students the main focus of the showcases that transcended presenting fashion for smartness but tinkered with topics around technology with futurism imagery.
Officiated by acclaimed artist, Sanaa Gateja, the show started off with works by former students before mixing up activities to include dance and random modelling routines by members of the audience.
The audience, mostly students at the school, showed a lot of support to the first showcases, not only because the models were doing a good job, but because the clothes by acclaimed designers such as Judith Tusubira or Nagujja Margaret were amazing.
Tusubira was more inclined to bridal fashion, while Nagujja, with a touch of African fabric, brought life to casual clothes such as sun dresses, shorts and shirts for both men and women.
Olivia Nakabazzi, a finalist of one of the past annual fashion Seed Shows was terrific with her ready to wear outfits that received lots of applause.
However, regardless of how much the past students brought their game, it was the current students that carried the day with edgy and experimental works that came from wearables to show-stoppers.
Some of these challenged the status quo by presenting women as stronger characters than they are mostly credited, while others came from an identity place with people either appreciating cultures or nature.
According to Gerald Kato, one of the former students in the audience, it was amazing seeing students challenging their limits and hopes. He encouraged the university to have more of these shows to get the arts finalists ready for the market.Read more at:cheap bridesmaid dresses online | QueenieAu
In India, gold jewelry has long been used to celebrate marriage and childbirth or presented as gifts during religious festivals. Ornate bridal pieces still are popular in the northern part of the country, while pieces in 22-karat yellow gold are favored in the south.
But change is in the air, partly as a result of shifting societal norms and the expansion of women’s roles in the workplace as well as the rising price of gold here and recent changes in the consumer tax on luxuries.
Jewellery created from unusual materials and in contemporary designs or sometimes inspired by traditional ethnic jewellery is becoming increasingly popular, with Eina Ahluwalia, a Kolkata-based jeweller, among those leading the way.
“A few decades ago, the primary jewellery buyer used to be the man, whether father or husband,” Ms Ahluwalia said. “Whereas now, especially in the non-gold market, it’s mostly women buying jewellery for themselves, without waiting for an occasion, purely for their own joy and satisfaction.”
Many women are no longer stuck in a what Indians call a Sass-Bua relationship, in which a mother-in-law controls a daughter-in-law’s spending, a staple storyline of many Indian soap operas. “More women are earning their own money, and spending it on themselves,” Ms Ahluwalia said. “Self-gratification no longer carries the guilt it did even just a generation ago.”
Ms Ahluwalia, who describes herself as India’s first conceptual jewelry artist, studied with the pioneering conceptual jeweller Ruudt Peters in the Netherlands in 2010, and says the contemporary jewellery designs created by Dutch designers in the 1970s continue to inspire her.
“In 2003, when I began making jewellery, I found the customers very excited and enthusiastic about finding jewellery that looked so different than what they were used to,” she said. But when a collection using concrete did not sell well, she began to work with gold-plated silver cut into elaborate fretwork designs.
Today, Ms Ahluwalia’s creations blend social activism, art, design and fashion * partly trying to counter what she calls the patriarchal associations of traditional Indian jewellery.
For example, her 2011 Wedding Vows collection took a stand against domestic violence by using renderings of kirpans, the knives that are an important symbol of her Sikh identity, in necklaces and other pieces. The words “Love, Respect, Protect” were worked in gold into chandelier earrings and layered necklaces.
That collection, she said, continues to be among her most successful, with its slogan “Accessorize the Warrior Within” resonating among customers.
Like recent industry trends among Western jewellers, Ms Ahluwalia said her designs were inspired by traditional and personal narratives, like her Wordsmith collection that displayed the names for God in Urdu, Arabic and Hindi.
“We aren’t selling jewellery,” she said, “we’re creating totems and carriers of messages and stories in physical form that can be carried close to the body, and worn as constant personal reminders.”
Ms Ahluwalia’s prices start at about $80 for a pair of shell-shaped earrings and rise to about $400 for elaborate pieces. “At first there was a cap to how much customers would spend in terms of price per piece,” she said. But, “over the years, the Indian market is exposed to so much more, and the customer base has significantly widened.”
Ms Suhani Pittie, a Pune-based designer who works in the gold-plated silver known as vermeil, agrees that the market has changed.
“The contemporary non-fine jewellery landscape has undergone a tremendous metamorphosis over the years,” she said in an email. “When we first began in 2004, there were only three players in the market. Jewellery was then divided into two categories only: fine and costume. There was no middle route for those interested in purchasing a product purely for the love of design.”
Today, unorthodox materials like concrete, wood, leather and found objects are used by many of the 60 designers whose work is showcased alongside Ms Ahluwalia’s at Nimai, a concept jewellery store opened in Delhi by Pooja Roy Yadav in 2013.
“Our designers use concrete, discarded watch parts, miniature paintings, nuts, bolts and almost anything to create jewelry not as an alternative to gold but as a piece of wearable art,” Ms Yadav said.
One of those designers, Anupama Sukh Lalvani, uses steel for her En Inde creations.
“I’m a trained architect and steel was a natural choice of material for me,” she said by email. “Steel is used for its strength and mirrorlike shine (to ward off evil). The tag line of the company is #findyoursteel.”
According to a strategic market research report by Euromonitor, the Indian costume jewellery sector is expected to show twice as much growth this year as fine jewellery, primarily because of what it calls the growing consumer preference for lightweight jewellery that can be worn every day.
Along with changes in design and materials, contemporary jewellery designers also have embraced new ways of marketing and selling their creations.
For example, Swarovski recently collaborated with 11 Indian fashion and jewelry designers, including Ms Ahluwalia. “It has introduced our brand to a much wider base of Swarovski customers who may not have known us and our work before,” the designer said. “Also, it has given our customers something new to be excited about since we don’t actually use a lot of stones.”
Ms Ahluwalia will not reveal her annual sales but, she said, 75 per cent of them occur online, primarily to Indian buyers. Her brand also has more than 21,000 followers on Instagram.
“Social media has been an invaluable tool to share these stories,” she said, “which would be near impossible in traditional retail formats, and very expensive and impersonal through conventional advertising and marketing.”
Traditionally, the Indian wedding has been the primary reason for gold jewellery purchases, with everyone from the bride to guests wearing as much as they own or borrow. Now designers, including Ms Ahluwalia and Pittie, are creating collections suitable for bridal wear.
As Ms Yadav said, “The modern Indian urban bride wants to have fun and her choices in jewellery reflects that. They are choosing fun experimental contemporary jewellery over heavily ornamented bling.
In 2014, Magda Butrym, a young Warsaw-based stylist-turned-fashion designer, debuted a 35-piece collection of floral print dresses and blouses, finished with cutaway detailing and hints of leather and hand crochet.
”I had always wanted to launch a label that was distinctly and proudly Polish,” said the 32-year-old designer, who is largely self-taught.
”I wanted to create clothes inspired by Polish craftsmanship, manufactured here in Poland and to have my design studio here too. But I also knew that was not going to be easy.”
She had worked in a number of small design businesses in Warsaw before starting the brand that bears her name.
”There are no buyers here. There is no fashion week. No one is here to tell you how to do things or where you need to get your foot in the door. I was taking a big risk.”
Historically, Poland and other Eastern European countries such as Hungary and Romania, have never been considered high-fashion destinations.
Behind the scenes, however, close ties with the industry have existed for decades, with factories across the region quietly producing garments and accessories for Western European luxury houses from Louis Vuitton to Hugo Boss.
Over the last decade, some of that business has moved elsewhere as companies hunt for cheaper labour and lower production costs, leaving many skilled workers without jobs.
Now, a new generation of luxury entrepreneurs is building businesses that take advantage of that craftsmanship.
In Hungary, contemporary womenswear brand Aeron was founded in 2012 by Eszter Aron, its head designer, and three friends, with Ms Vivien Laszloffy joining the business as chief executive in 2015.
The label’s philosophy, Ms Laszloffy said, is to be a brand ”that people will recognise and know is from Budapest, in the same way people look at Acne and know it’s from Sweden”.
”People say it is against the odds to build a brand from here, rather than move to Paris or Milan, but we see it as an advantage,” she said.
”Everyone has a vision in his mind of what a French or Italian brand looks like. But no one can imagine a brand from Budapest yet. So, we can seize that space and make it our own.”
As a privately owned company, sales figures are not released. But the two women said sales doubled annually in each of the last three years, with the majority of growth coming from an unexpected region: Asia.
After struggling to gain traction in the West, the pair looked eastward, where the brand’s minimalist aesthetic and techno-fabrics gained appreciation.
More than 60 per cent of its sales now come from the region: In Japan, Aeron is stocked in major department store Isetan and fashion chain Tomorrowland, as well as in a string of boutiques across South Korea, China and Hong Kong.
Signing with Itochu, one of Japan’s largest trading companies, ”catapulted us into a different league”, Ms Laszloffy said.
And the success abroad has boosted morale at home in four factories where the brand makes its leather, knitwear and ready-to-wear styles.
”The workers have always worked for foreign companies. Now, they are part of a Hungarian success story,” she said.
”Furthermore, being able to drive an hour or two and see collections as they are produced and who produces them, rather than being a plane ride away, is a huge advantage to us as a small business. We wouldn’t have it any other way.”
Proximity to workshops and factories was what prompted Alexandru Adam, a Romanian footwear designer, to move to Bucharest after studying in London at Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art and designing shoes for Vivienne Westwood, a British fashion label.
After introducing his own accessories and quality casual label called Metis in 2016, Adam initially intended to divide his time between the two cities. But after Britain’s vote to leave the European Union, he was prompted to think again.
”Most of my fashion designer friends who have their own brands are considering alternative options for when the UK will be out of the EU,” he said. ”Everyone produces outside of the UK and most of the materials come from the EU anyway, from suppliers in France, Belgium, Italy and Romania.”
”Really, it just didn’t make financial sense for us to keep our company in London anymore,” he added.
Across the Black Sea from Romania lies Georgia, another former Soviet republic. The fashion and arts scene of Tbilisi, its capital city, has caught the fashion industry spotlight, in large part because of Demna Gvasalia, founder of cult street-wear label Vetements and creative director of Balenciaga.
Now, emerging designers still based in the region are reaping the benefits.
N-Duo-Concept, the brainchild of Nina Tsilosani and Natuka Karkashadze, a former fashion writer for publications such as Elle Ukraine and Harper’s Bazaar Kazakhstan, started life in 2014 as an e-commerce website championing lesser-known brands. A year later, they unveiled a clothing line under the same name and with a similarly offbeat aesthetic, produced in Tbilisi and stocked in a number of foreign boutiques.
Butrym, noting that Vogue Poland is expected to debut early next year, said: ”It is a really exciting time to be working here and I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else.”Read more at:formal dresses online | formal dresses brisbane
Appalled shoppers are calling on centres around Australia to take down life-sized advertising for a controversial lingerie chain that they have likened to ”soft porn”.
Sydney mother Kat Israel said she avoided walking past the Honey Birdette store at the Macquarie Centre because she did not want her children to see the its latest window banners.
Ms Israel said she found the advertising sexist, with women ”posed to be very sexual” and ”looking very sultry”.
”People can buy what they like and that’s fine but I think they shouldn’t be allowed to have that sort of advertising there in a public space.”
An online petition calling on Westfield to take action over the displays in their centres has attracted thousands of signatures.
Ms Israel said she has had to have conversations about the images with her children, including her 11-year-old son.
”He’s a little boy and we’re carefully teaching him about consent and respect, and then you go to a public place and have that potentially undone by seeing these soft porn images that are enormous, they’re absolutely massive.”
A spokeswoman for AMP Capital, which owns the Macquarie Centre, said it always passed on feedback from customers to individual retailers.
”We encourage customers who have any concerns about what they see in our centre to contact management.”
Kenneth Thor, a Melbourne father of three, said his heart sank when he walked past the Honey Birdette lingerie store in Westfield Fountain Gate and his four-year-old daughter asked why the model in the store’s printed display wasn’t wearing any clothes.
He said the store’s display banners featured ”near naked women clad only with sheer lingerie in all their raunchy glory”.
”Even worse, [my daughter’s] shrieks caught the attention of my six-year-old son, who came running and together they stared and pointed at the porn-style images trying to make sense of them.”
He started the petition on change calling on Westfield to step in and force the removal of the images. It had achieved more than 11,000 signatures by Thursday evening.
Mr Thor is petitioning Westfield shopping centres to stop using ”porn-style advertising” and to practice higher advertising standards in Westfield’s shopping centres.
Julia Clarke, Head of Corporate Affairs at Scentre Group said Westfield shopping centres strive to meet the needs of many different shoppers.
”As with all its retail partners, Scentre Group has continued to work closely with Honey Birdette in the period it has operated in the Group’s portfolio, and it also implements a number of processes – on a case-by-case basis – which may address any customer concerns,” she said.
”Any customer feedback – positive and negative – that is received by Scentre Group is always shared with Honey Birdette stores.”
The petition is directed at Peter and Steven Lowy but Ms Clarke confirmed they are not involved with the operations of Westfield centres in Australia and New Zealand.
”They are co-CEOs of Westfield Corporation, which owns Westfield centres in the US, UK and Europe.”
Mr Thor complained to the Advertising Standards Bureau (ASB), and the complaint was upheld – but he felt the situation had not been resolved.
”They were ordered to take down the ads, but they have since replaced them with worse ones!”
A spokeswoman for ASB said complaints are assessed by an independent board of people who decide whether the advertisements are exploitative and degrading based on broad community views.
”With lingerie advertising what we find is that there are always some people who find it offensive regardless of how it’s advertised,” she said.
”A number of Honey Birdette ads have been found to breach standards but an equal number have been found to be acceptable.”
Mr Thor also said he contacted Honey Birdette founder Eloise Monaghan.